Heading south out of Montana we decide that our first stop will be in City of Rocks on the southern most border of Idaho. This place is quite literally exactly as the name states. Sitting in a high desert landscape, huge granite pillars and domes erupt out of the valley floor almost replicating natural "skyscrapers". Overwhelming amounts of rock await our climbing. Feeling a little daunted at the grades of the routes (being that this will essentially be the first time either of us has seriously climbed this season), we opt to begin on some simple top rope problems to get back in the swing of the game. Weather was also not on our side today, wind was blowing in a serious fashion encouraging us to sport high mountain alpine down jackets.
- looking into the valley -
- city of rocks -
- heading to practice wall -
I heard a fantastic quote from another climber saying "there are 3 things you should never have to pay for in life, those being: water, camping, and sex". Well since we haven't set out on a cross country prostitution trip, I think the later of the statement goes without too much worry. Water, of course is an easy item to obtain for free. Find a campground and replenish our bottles in excessive amounts, or if the case may be, filter some H20 from any stream or lake. The middle objective of this statement can tend to be rather tricky. Camping does not come free, nor cheap. At unjustifiable dollar amounts we opt for gorilla style camping (typically trying to find BLM land) or elusively drawing the shades on the turtle and setting up shop in a business's parking lot. Luckily, on the way to city of rocks I happened to be perusing climbing forums and vaguely remember someone mentioning some free dispersed camping a handful of miles from the climbing areas. Keeping in mind that the turtle has no 4x4 drive and carries an explosive tank of propane on it's undercarriage, we set out to find solitude at a price of free. Only having to navigate a few small rock gardens, we end up in a darn near perfect and serene off the beaten bath campsite to where we will call home for the next few days.
- camping on FREE blm -
With the sun shining into the van with a vengence, we are up bright eyed and bushy tailed with the coffee rolling and hashing a plan for our first "real" day here in the City. Flipping through the extensive guidebook we pick out what we can conceive as the hardest 5.13 trad line in the area and start packing our bags. bahaha NAH just playing, we actually have never climbed a 5.13, probably never will but lets just pretend like we are serious 'scenders (as the hardmen would say) and are planning on crimpin' out on the most improbable surfaces known to man. Okay, okay, so we picked out a nice and easy BOLTED 3 pitch 5.7 route up Jackson's Thumb. I put bolted in CAPS, as this route does not joke around with the fall protection that you are given with 18 bolts per pitch. Not to complain, as we will end up using each and every one, and be thankful that they are there. Jackson's Thumb is a cool spire that lies just to the left of Steinfells Dome (tallest granite in the City). After a fairly quick approach, less than half hour, we are at the base and gearing up to get on our first multi-pitch of the year. We do remember how to do this right?! I'm always in need of refreshment at the begining of a season, fortunately I have Sam as my trusty partner (sometimes more like guide) to work me through the proper formalities of how and when to appropriately do things. The climb itself tends to be fairly slabby but at a low angle so huge holds aren't necessary. Sam leads all of the 3 pitches, could be 4 pitches but with our spanky new 70m yellow rope we have the ability to link the last 2 together. Rapping this route is almost as fun as the actual climbing itself. Immediately after hooking up, it drops you into a cool free-hang rap. Wouldn't want anything less than a 70m rope to get off, but two 60m ropes you'd also find yourself safely on the ground.
- jacksons thumb to the left, steinfells tower on right-
- comin up the slabs-
With what we'd call a rather successful day numero uno, we start formulating our next objective. Logically speaking, we choose Steinfells Dome. With somewhere around 5 pitches going at 5.8+, this will more excitement for us today. We reach the climb at the same time as another party, graciously letting them jump on first, we sit back and watch them flawlessly move through the first pitch. Sam ties in and heads it up. Cruising up the 5.3 slab he reaches the first belay in less than 10 minutes! It's typical procedure for expedience sake, that the person who follows should be climbin in roughly half the amount of time as the leader. This should typically seem do-able as the follow has little to zero fall potential and zero route finding, as the leader has to tediously pick out the most probable line up the wall. One last look at the watch before I attempt a speed ascent, and go! Thankfully this pitch is forgiving and at a relative low angle that 5 minutes doesn't seem to bad. Sam continues onward and upward clipping bolt after bolt getting us more air underneath our feet which is starting to give us a bit of excitement. As we get to the base of the last pitch and look up, the realization of 5.8+ is staring us straight in the noggins. A relaxing fun cruizer of a climb now has some steepness mixed with an increased grade level. The holds are great, and the abundance of bolts has our fearless leader up to the top with a quick graceful note. Keeping a tight belay, I head begin my turn, struggling only slightly more, cursing at my limp muscles thinking of how I should have gone to the gym everyday like I may or may have not told my self many times over the past few months, nonetheless, I make it and we take a quick scramble to the summit and snap some cool pics.
-workin up the 5.8+ pitch-
- happy to be here -
- happy belay man-
We mess around on a handful of other crag routes, all stellar quality rock, and then decide it's time to mosy on toward the south. Until next time, City of Rocks. CHECK!
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